Nazir Chughtai arrived in the Kingdom from his hometown in Pakistan in early 1977. Having spent more than three decades with his family in the Kingdom, he reminisces about the time when the ‘souq' hadn't been replaced by malls, the Saudi nationality was up for grabs, and performing Umrah in Ramadan took less than an hour. He begins his story of yore by mentioning the insignificant proportion of expatriates in the Kingdom and the even more negligible number of malls and hypermarkets in the cities. Times were so different that the Saudi nationals would address Pakistanis as “doctors and engineers” as a mark of respect. With regards to Ramadan, Nazir's experience in Saudi Arabia proved to be very different from that in Pakistan: “We were used to sleep at night and being noisily woken up by the ‘dhol-walas' (men with drums in-charge of informing households about the impending adhan – call for prayer) in the street for ‘Suhoor'. In Saudi Arabia, however, people would stay up all night since office and school hours were more relaxed in Ramadan; and if you'd step outside into the few markets that existed at the time, they would be brimming with people indulging in festivities. We enjoyed that whole-heartedly.” Thirty years ago, accessing certain food items was difficult since there wasn't as much variety and as many options. A very limited number of stores offered food items that South Asian expats required. Moreover, during Eid and Haj, eggs and chicken shortage was common since local poultry farms weren't that large or widespread. Over time, food varieties have significantly increased with the opening of giant superstores and hypermarkets, supplemented by the flourishing local industry. “Moreover, several Pakistani restaurants, bakeries, and stores providing access to our local cuisine induce the feeling of being at home.” Ramadan is more colorful, brighter, and exciting than before – courtesy the several malls and other recreational locations that have opened up during the last decade, although picnicking in public parks and at the beach has taken a downward plunge. “It was common practice to prepare ‘Iftar' and take it to the beach, public parks, or playing grounds and then sharing it with other families present there, creating an atmosphere of togetherness and warmth. The experience was very pleasant and fulfilling. “I don't see that happening anymore.” Commercialization has created the culture of ‘dining-out' more than ‘eating-out'.” Moreover, the experience of family picnics has perceptibly altered due to cultural changes – the feelings of generosity and safety seem to have diminished over time. However, the best part of Ramadan in those days for Nazir and his community was the ability to drive up to Makkah and Madina to break their fast and offer Taraweeh prayers as frequently as the heart desired. “It was so unbelievably convenient that we would drive to Makkah, park our cars right in front of the Masjid Al-Haram, and open Iftar almost every alternate day in Ramadan. This is but a rare luxury now.” Recently, due to the population surge and the subsequent traffic, it has become impossible to find suitable place for parking within city limits. Not only has the commuting time increased, so have the difficulties in performing Umrah or even just Tawaaf during Ramadan. People think twice before preparing for a trip to Makkah or Madina in the holy month of Ramadan due to the traffic, the crowd, and the viral infections that have become widespread in recent times. Visiting these holy sites during Ramadan with families, particularly children and the aged, is not even a remote possibility. Notwithstanding, the spirit of Ramadan, says Nazir, continues to thrive with full throttle even after all these years and any amount of change cannot dampen that divine experience.
