WHEN a survey of Nigeria's most loved cities is taken, it will not be a surprise to any Nigerian that Port Harcourt will always make the top list. As capital of the southern Nigerian Rivers State, Port Harcourt is a city that many fresh graduates seeking for jobs often love to work and live in. Fondly called the ‘garden city' because of its beautiful scenery and beauty, it is predominantly a multi-ethnic area comprising of the Ijaws and Ikweres who are of Igbo extraction. Since the town is also home to the rich and middle class executives of major oil companies, it is also a relatively expensive city. The strategic importance of Rivers State in the economic equation of Nigeria earned it the name, ‘treasure base of the nation'. Indeed, Rivers State is accountable for over 48% of the crude oil produced on-shore in Nigeria and 100% of the liquefied natural gas that Nigeria is currently exporting to several countries of the world, according to the Ministry of Information in Rivers State. My previous visits to the city were always exciting as I admired the tall and beautiful buildings located in the city center and Government-reserved areas. Located in the Niger Delta part of Nigeria, the town is full of hustle and bustle as traffic congestion is a common feature. Named after Lewis Harcourt, a colonial secretary who worked in the city prior to Nigeria's independence, the city is rapidly transforming and it is indeed trying to re-invent itself with huge construction and infrastructure projects currently underway. Many illegal structures that were erected contrary to the master plan of the city have just been recently demolished. This drive has also given the roads a breathing space, as structures that were very close to the roadsides have been cleared. New link roads have been recently built and many single lane roads are being dualized, while new fly-over and bridges are under construction. Port Harcourt has a very good taxi and bus system and it is the major way to get around by tourists. The railway system is also functional but is not very popular in the area. It was obvious that apart from the infrastructural development going on, there had also been some significant social development. This was evident in the change of attitude of people. Nigerians are generally perceived to always be in a hurry. Interestingly, I observed that both pedestrians and drivers now adhered to traffic rules. Approaching the Eliozu flyover, in which the work was close to completion. I did not reserve my excitement on the way things will look in a few years time, and Assurance - the taxi driver who also doubled as my tour guide - saw this as his cue to tell me all about Port Harcourt. I asked him what had happened to the Okada (local slang used to describe motorcyclists), an unpopular feature on Nigerian roads, and one that has been banned in many Nigerian cities because of the sheer nuisance it used to cause on roads. It turned out that the city's initiative of running more buses had finally banished this most notorious of eccentric tourist attractions. Street hawkers however, still weave their way between traffic jams and boldly exhibit their wares. During one such stop, I spotted a roadside eatery owned by a woman selling instant roasted yam and plantain. For any native Nigerian, that aroma arouses a love for Naija (Nigeria) like nothing else can. Port Harcourt is beautiful, infrastructure or no infrastructure, with lush greenery and a beautiful beach boasting of crisp white sand. Notable buildings include the State Secretariat; the Government House, which resembles a five star hotel more than anything else; and stunning mansions along Moscow road, which include the Rivers State House of Assembly. As a native African who is tired of seeing Africa portrayed as a continent of the poor, ill and hungry, I was happy to see that there was beauty, development and contentment in a little part of the African world. Contentment runs high in Port Harcourt, a fact that was exemplified by an old janitor working in the State Secretariat building - whose elevators did not work - who cheerfully told me that he used the staircase to go up and down the ten-storey building every day. The city is also known for its consistent rainy weather, although the continuous downpour I experience did not deter me from exploring some of the city's impressive sites. Visiting the beach is an absolute must for all tourists, although the Port Harcourt Museum is a good place to while away the time during rainy wet weather. The neighboring town of Andoni - easily accessible via road and train links - also boasts of the Andoni Elephant Sanctuary, a great site for children and adults alike. Food lovers will also not be disappointed with the chance to experience Port Harcourt's speciality: pounded yam and vegetable soup with fish. A truly local, delicacy, this dish will be available in most restaurants and roadside cafes. Sea food plays a large culinary role in the city, with its proximity to various rivers providing a diverse range of options. For the less adventurous, eateries like Mr, Biggs, Kilimanjaro and Genesis offer more recognizable meals. Finding a reasonable hotel is rather easy with hotels charging between 7,000 to 22,000 Naira ($46 - $146) a night and notable five-star hotels include The Presidential Hotel, Le Meridian Ogeyi Place and Protea Hotel. Cheaper and less luxurious options include the International Airport Hotel, Taland Hotel, Ivy Homes and Excellence Hotel. With the magnitude of infrastructural development going on in Port Harcourt as well as the positive change in attitude most locals have started sporting, it is obvious that this oil-rich town from Southern Nigeria, has the potential of being a formidable tourist hot
