Architectural gems spanning a sweep of human history hide behind nondescript doors in Syria's second city. Understated carpets are prized by collectors and the cuisine incorporates ancient influences from as far away as China. Subtlety is the hallmark of Aleppo, one of the world's richest historical sites whose inhabitants possess a quiet pride and a cosmopolitan culture that has survived Mongol destruction and steady economic decline. The city, built around a vast medieval citadel, was wrapped in obscurity for decades by Soviet-style policies which undermined its business classes and the city's reputation as a culinary capital of the Middle East. But the trading hub of Silk Road fame has been witnessing a renaissance lately, driven by economic liberalization and an opening toward Turkey, Aleppo's neighbor to the north. Tasteful hotels and restaurants are opening up in and around the once-walled city, itself built on layers of much older ruins. Medieval districts have been renovated with the help of the Agha Khan, and other international organizations working to save the United Nations World Heritage Site. Day one Start with the citadel, preferably by hiring one of its accredited guides. Moving swiftly is key, otherwise a comprehensive tour could consume much of your stay in Aleppo. Numerous invaders, from Byzantines and Seljuks to Mamluks and Ottomans have left their architectural marks on the edifice, which traces its origins more than 2,000 years. The citadel also served as seat of government and its rulers lived in style, as evident from the wood inlaid throne room. The scale is huge, but the two winged lions at the citadel's museum are replicas, originally carved in basalt and excavated by Georges Ploix de Rotrou, a 1920s French archeologist who ran out of time and money to uncover the 500 sq meter (5,400 sq ft) Hittite Temple of the Storm God hidden under the citadel. Ploix de Rotrou suspected hidden treasures but he did not live long enough to see a German team 90 years later revealing the full glory of the temple, which is closed to the public. A guide, however, may be able to get you in, as well as to the rest of the citadel's secrets, such as the Ayyubid cistern. Ain Dara, another magnificent Hittite temple 60 km (40 miles) north of Aleppo which overlooks Turkey, might be easier to access. For accommodation try al-Mansouriya (www.mansouriya.com), a 16th century palace near Bab Qinnisreen, one of the city's best preserved gates. Its nine suites are pricey, but arguably there is no higher luxury this side of Marrakesh. The annex at Dar Zamaria is also nice. Hotel Baron on Baron street compensates for luxury by character, including the 1914 bill for Monsieur Lawrence (of Arabia) on display, which the Englishman had paid, contrary to rumors. Day two Have a stroll through the Grand Mosque. Hali, the British carpet and Islamic art magazine, recently pointed to the mosque's green and blue Islamic ceramic tiles as a fine example, which rivals the tiles from Iran and Turkey, and incorporates influences from both. In keeping with Aleppo's character, the tiles are used sparingly. Important examples also survive at Al-Khosrowiya Mosque, built by Ottoman architect Sinan, and at Beit (house) Janblat. The mosque borders the 7 km (5 mile) covered labyrinth souks, and antique dealers there hardly come as experienced as those at Musafi Al-Asal. An Esfahan carpet could set you back tens of thousands of dollars. But check out tribal kilims (rugs) from Ifrin, the Kurdish region to the north of Aleppo, where households used to produce different style kilims to match the occasion, such as gifts for newborn babies. Day three How about a morning scrub at one of Aleppo's traditional baths? Service at the 12th-13th century Hamam Al-Nahhasin receives good reviews. A day's excursion outside the city is rich in any direction. The columns of St Simeon's Cathedral to the north used to hold up the largest Christian Basilica before Europe's mediaeval cathedrals were built. The Byzantine saint, Simeon, sat for decades on top of a pillar, making himself and the church one of Christendom's foremost pilgrimage sites. Scattered among the limestone landscape are the Dead Cities, which housed substantial populations during Hellenistic and Roman times but were mysteriously abandoned. The most impressive, Serjilla is 80 km (50 miles) south of Aleppo. The Euphrates is also near, and the Arab Najm castle has a magnificent view of the river.
