DON'T try to hoof it to the newly relocated Jungle Bar, at least not from Boracay's main strip, White Beach, where it used to be a mainstay — you'll never find it. This kind of anything-goes vibe is getting harder to find in Boracay, a speck of an island smack in the middle of the Philippines that in recent years has been making the leap from low-key tropical backwater to Southeast Asia's newest hot spot. The Philippines' tourism ministry has pushed to promote and develop many of its prized islands and to draw more visitors than the usual weekenders from Manila or honeymooners from Korea. Boracay, with its long stretches of powdery white sand and kite-surfing- and-dive-friendly coral reefs, remains the crown jewel, if not yet the cash cow, of the Philippine Islands. Most of the island's attractions can be found along White Beach, its three miles of soft sand lined with thick groves of swaying palms. For better or worse, this part of Boracay has embraced its inner Phuket, with barking masseuses, all-you-can-eat buffets and resorts with more waterfalls than the Amazon. The rising population and frenzied pace of development have put stress on this fragile island. To ease roadway congestion, a new byway is under construction, and plans are in place to clean up the sewage-tainted waters farther offshore. Meanwhile, a number of new Gatsby-esque villas and vacation homes are laying claim to the island's limestone cliffs and virgin coastline. Expansion of the closest airport, in Caticlan, a short ferry hop from the island, is also planned. Bare-bones cabanas catering to backpackers are giving way to fancy resorts with all the perks. The tree-house-like cottages of Nami, an exclusive resort, were eclipsed last year by a new development, Shangri-La, which has its own private lagoon. The tiki-style bungalows of another resort, Fridays, were recently one-upped by Discovery Shores, whose “beach butlers,” down pillows and sunken pool bar have added a contemporary touch to Boracay. While the dress code still skews beach style — de rigueur flip-flops, loose Hawaiian shirts — at least one woman in stiletto heels was trying her best to navigate the sandy boardwalk. The influx of visitors has even prompted a “Bor-a-CAY please, not Bora” campaign among natives, a gentle jab at those who truncate the island's name. But the island's emerald-blue waters have a way of keeping almost everyone happy. After all, you can kite-surf in the morning, dive through underwater caves and shipwrecks in the afternoon, and still have time for island hopping by sundown — just flag down any of the pawans, or outrigger sailboats, along White Beach. If a water sport exists, chances are you can find it on Boracay, and someone will likely shove a flier in your face to try it out for a “low price” (“Sir! Dragon-boat racing?”). On land, there's also plenty to do. Behind D'Mall, a touristy maze of T-shirt stands in the middle of the island, look for Leonardo's pond-side motorbike-rental shack. Take a spin up north to Puka Beach, a gorgeous, secluded cove whose prickly sand is actually a bed of snail shells. Or make the heart-stopping descent into a nearby limestone cave, armed only with a flashlight and a young guide, to inspect the squeaking fruit bats and squirming snakes (wear shoes, not flip-flops, as the descent is slippery). The less-bustling side of the island near Bulabog Beach is also well worth a visit, with its Swedish-owned surf shops and squat bamboo huts that double as guesthouses. The brackish waters are not really for swimming, but the steady winds and shallow coves make it one of the world's premier spots for kite- and wind-surfing. “The Boracay night life is easily the best in the Philippines,” said D.J. Surf, a 25-year-old half-Filipino, half-Briton with swirly tattoos across his torso. “But I've seen photos from way back when there was nothing here — just an empty beach, a forest of coconut trees, some happy locals and a bunch of hippies who to this date are still here.” One of those hippies is Joey Gelito, a Filipino better known as Captain Joey and a Boracay resident since 1989. With his long mane of jet-black hair, strong cheekbones and seashell necklace, the captain, 44, looks the part of a pirate, which he plays up to full effect at his Red Pirates Bar, a mellow hut of thatched bamboo and nautical paraphernalia. He also gives island tours on his fire-engine-red sailboat, which end at beachside barbecues. Captain Joey says he welcomes the boom in business, but not the construction and development everywhere. If you go Flights from Manila to Caticlan, the closest airport to Boracay, run every hour or two in the morning and afternoon on Cebu Pacific Airlines (cebupacificair.com) and South East Asian Airlines (flyseair.com). One-way tickets can be purchased at the airport and start at around 1,340 Philippine pesos, or about $30 at 45 pesos to the dollar. Return fares are often much higher. Grab a ferry for the five-minute ride across the channel to Boracay. The new Shangri-La Boracay Resort & Spa has villas and suites with ocean views, a spa and private beach. Doubles start at around 17,000 Philippine pesos, but hotel rates tend to be negotiable. Regency Lagoon has 120 rooms, starting at around 8,000 pesos. Travelers on a budget should try the unpretentious Giulius Gardens, whose cozy rooms face a charming garden. Doubles start at about 4,000 pesos. Red Pirates offers sunset sailboat cruises starting at 500 pesos. To rent a motorbike, look for Leonardo's stand behind D'Mall. For diving lessons off White Beach, Remus Romero of WaterColors will show you the ropes and reefs; 3,000 pesos for three hours. - New York Times 1. Most of the tourist attractions on Boracay can be found along White Beach. 2. Just flag down any of the pawans, or outrigger sailboats, along White Beach for some island hopping. __
