ARGENTINA's capital Buenos Aires is a cosmopolitan city best experienced through its monumental passions rather than its monuments. Argentines adore steak and dinners that stretch on for hours, the sultry nostalgia of tango dance halls, a nail-biting match between rival soccer titans and spirited conversations that keep the vibrant cafe culture humming — and their fervor is contagious. Visitors get the most out of their stay delving into these pockets of passion in Argentine life, rather than scurrying from cathedral to war monument — many of which are often less impressive than their European counterparts. When London or New York City has called it a night, portenos — as Buenos Aires' port-dwelling residents are called — are just putting on their dancing shoes heading out until dawn to tango halls and clubs pounding experimental cumbia music. The city is also a bargain compared to Europe or the U.S. The Buenos Aires tourism industry has grown accustomed to the steady wave of visitors since the Argentine peso plummeted to a third of its value following a devastating 2001 economic crash. While some tourist hot spots have hiked up prices, there are ways to keep costs down while exploring portenos' many passions. Many cultural activities are free thanks to hefty government subsidies and a political push to uphold Buenos Aires' reputation as one of Latin America's cultural reference points. Browse the city's cultural Web site (www.buenosaires.gov.ar/areas/cultura) for a list of free tango and jazz performances and film festivals. Or visit the city's tourism site(www.bue.gov.ar, bilingual) for self-guided tours and free goings-on. Now, for the first local passion, according to portenos: beef. Argentines lead the world in beef consumption, eating an average of 143 pounds per person a year. Rent a bike nearby in San Telmo at La Bicicleta Naranja (Pasaje Giuffra 308) for $3 an hour to peddle through the reserve to the banks of the Rio de la Plata, one of the widest rivers in the world. It's best to visit the park and the Costanera on a weekend afternoon, rather than at night. Few dances are as passionate as the tango, next on the list of local obsessions. But few stops on the tourist “to do” list are more expensive than an elaborate tango show, which can run upward of $100 per person with dinner. Go to a tango dance hall, or milonga, instead, where entrance is usually around $5. Most people go to dance, but you can sit while dozens of intertwined couples prove romance isn't dead. Just don't look too intently at anyone — in milonga etiquette that's a sign you want to dance. If a muse does inspire, however, many milongas offer inexpensive classes before the regulars hit the floor. Explore the early days of tango in colorful La Boca neighborhood with Cicerones, (www.cicerones.org.ar). They offer personalized tours in English led by volunteers who love sharing their inside local knowledge. They can take you to the city's best museums or famed soccer stadiums like Boca Juniors “Bombonera.” Cicerones recommends reserving five days in advance and a donation of $10 per person for the three-to-four-hour tour. Divide the weekend by neighborhood — Saturday, Palermo, and Sunday, San Telmo — to be sure catch each barrio at its best. Head to Plaza Cortazar — or Plaza Serrano as it's popularly called — to delve into the almost comical frenzy of consumerism that make portenos some of the most stylishly attired people in Latin America. Eager to capitalize on the neighborhood's notorious trendiness, real estate agents have aptly dubbed the area Palermo SoHo. Hit up the ring of restaurants encircling Plaza Serrano. They temporarily stop serving on Saturday and Sunday from 2 p.m.-8 p.m., opening their doors to dozens of young designers who transform the bars into impromptu stores, selling shirts, purses and accessories on the cheap. Outside, scores of artisans sell handicrafts. Great eats in the area include Social Paraiso (Honduras 5182) and the popular La Cabrera parrilla (Cabrera 5099), where diners can split a gluttonous 2-pound steak for less than $20. With each bite you begin to understand the buzz about Argentine beef. Take a taxi — even crossing the city, it will rarely cost more than $10. Radio Taxi is the safest option. Ease your transition back into daylight Sunday morning with the typical Buenos Aires breakfast: a cafe con leche, fresh-squeezed orange juice and three croissants, or medialunas, for less than $4. Pick up Spanish-daily Pagina12 and flip to the supplement Radar, which has one of the best weekly cultural calendars. The neighborhood hosts a not-to-be-missed festive street fair every Sunday, running for 10 blocks along Defensa Street. Meander all morning without spending a cent, listening to live tango orchestras, laughing at street performers and people-watching. Grab a slice of cheese-filed pizza, called fugazza con queso for about $1, at Pirilo's (Defensa 841), a tiny joint with standing room only. Another Sunday option is the Feria de Mataderos, a gaucho arts and crafts fair with folk dancing and traditional food from Argentina's north — about half an hour from the city center. The free fair is held Sundays from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. unless it rains, and is well worth the short trip (www.feriademataderos.com.ar.) A nighttime diversion is walking along Buenos Aires' luminous theater strip, Corrientes Avenue. Catch a show or movie (English-language films are subtitled rather than dubbed) and then eat some Argentine pizza — a delicious missing link between thin crust and deep dish. Sweeten the night with a dulce de leche ice cream. You'll have to sleep some time, and boutique hotels are surprisingly affordable in Buenos Aires, with double rooms for around $150. Check out Hotel Home, (www.homebuenosaires.com); Hotel Bobo (www.bobohotel.com) and Malabia House, (www.malabiahouse.com.ar.)
