OUTSIDE the Grand Mosque in Nouakchott, Mauritania's capital, the faithful perform their ablutions. It's an age-old Muslim ritual to ensure cleanliness before prayers. Nearly all of Mauritania's 3.1 million people practice Islam. Thousands of them gather here everyday to pray during the holy month of Ramadan. Mohamed Salem, the Imam at the mosque says, “ Ramadan is the month of the Qur'an so you read a great deal from the Qur'an. People also give a lot to charity, increase in their love for each other, maintain good relations with family and looking out for their less privileged brothers, to make sure they have food to break their fast.” Charity is also a pillar of Islam and normally the beggars outside the mosque can expect more generosity than usual during the holy month. But this year, most Mauritanians don't have much money to spare. Like in many other parts of the world, food prices in the country are rising by the day; many families are now finding it difficult to pay for the groceries used to prepare the elaborate meals that break their fast every evening. Jamila Haidara, a Nouakchott resident says, “ We can find everything, but it's expensive. We can't live anymore, everything is expensive.” Sidi El Khair, a Nouakchott resident adds, “ We can't observe this Ramadan because we don't have any money. We don't know what to do anymore about this Ramadan.” Every year this government-run store is set up to sell foodstuffs to the poor at subsidized prices. But as market prices continue to rise, more and more people rely on the shop for their food - and stocks are running low. Sidi Mouloud Habib, a Nouakchott resident says, “ The food of Ramadan - like sugar and onions - we were told that they are cheaper here at this store. But we've been here since 8 o'clock this morning and we have nothing.” Mohamed Ould Moustapha, another Nouakchott resident, “In the past the prices weren't too high, so people didn't need to come here. But this year, the prices are high so everyone comes here. But the problem is that even if they come, they won't find anything left.” Adding to the country's economic woes is the political uncertainty that followed a military coup in August, in which General Mohamed Abdel Aziz overthrew President Sidi Abdallahi, the country's first ever democratically-elected head of state. Black market money vendors on the streets of Nouakchott say the political situation has also affected the currency's exchange rate. A black market foreign exchange vendor, says, “Honestly, the value of our currency, the ouguiya, has fallen due to this coup against major currencies. This is because the government is not yet stable. The political instability is driving the economy down.” Abdel Aziz has formed a new cabinet headed by Moulaye Ould Mohamed Laghdaf, who has assured Mauritanians that the economy can be turned around. Prime Minister Moulaye Ould Mohamed Laghdaf, said, “At the national level, the challenges are enormous. We have to rapidly improve the buying power of Mauritanian citizens to deal with the rising prices of food and energy. The first measures taken by my government just before the month of Ramadan are already bearing fruit.” But after more than 10 military coups, many Mauritanians like Rabah Ould prefer to put their trust in God than in a government. Especially at this time when religious obligations are so important, the country's politics is taking a back seat. Rabah Ould Embeiric, a Nouakchott resident says, “Politics doesn't concern us, the poor. If Ramadan comes, we observe it by fasting. Politics and other things don't concern us.” Rabah's family is preparing for Iftar, the evening meal that will break their fast. As traditionally done here they will start off with a light meal of juice, dates, milk and soup. A more filling feast will soon follow after prayers. Muslims believe that Ramadan is a month that brings blessings. Those blessings seem more urgently needed than ever now- and almost everyone here hopes that their prayers will bring change for the better, whatever their political inclinations.
