Take a walk or pedal a bike back in time in Beijing's disappearing hutong alleyways for a glimpse into the sleepy Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368) life the city knew when it became a capital around 1283. A maze of car-less, mostly Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasty hutong lie to the north and south of the central Forbidden City, and around nearby Houhai's three picturesque lakes. Wandering is the best option, as the sometimes nameless alleys are too small to be on maps. 7 P.M. - Rest under shady willow trees, or in a lakeside cafe or bar such as No Name. Said to be Houhai's first bar, it has a range of strong Vietnamese, Irish and other iced coffees and snacks. Across the lake and down another hutong its sister restaurant, No Name Yunnan Restaurant, has a rooftop terrace and South China specialities. 9.30 P.M. - Take a post-dinner stroll around brand-new Games venues the Bird's Nest national stadium and Water Cube aquatic center. A new subway line leads up to the perimeter fence around the futuristic buildings, which are lit up with glowing colors from 7.30 P.M. to 10 P.M. every night. SATURDAY 5 A.M. - Early risers can watch the sunrise flag raising ceremony in Tiananmen, the world's largest public square and a vast concrete expanse dominated by the memory of Mao Zedong, who founded the People's Republic in 1949. 8.30 A.M. - Mao's mummified body lies in a free-to-visit central mausoleum, open 8.00 A.M. to 12 P.M. except Mondays, and his portrait hangs over the Tiananmen Gate, center of the city's north-south central axis and entrance to the Forbidden City. 10 A.M. - For a newer “new China” monument walk west from the square, past the dark-red walls of government compound Zhongnanhai, and cross the street to “The Egg”. The glittering glass National Centre for the Performing Arts lies inside a shallow moat whose rim, and small surrounding park, have become a popular hang out spot. 12 P.M. - Four blocks away, just south of Tiananmen (tube stop Qianmen) is the former Legation quarter, home to foreign missions from 1861 to 1959 and Beijing's most significant collection of early twentieth century European architecture. A handful of buildings remaining, including the more than 100-year-old former US Embassy, are being restored by developers who plan high-end restaurants and arts and entertainment venues. 2 P.M. - Head north for late lunch and galleries at Timezone 8 bookshop and cafe, or At Cafe, in 798 Dashanzi arts district off the airport expressway. Built with East German cooperation in the 1950s, the sprawling state-run munitions factory downsized after 1980s reforms, and since the late 1990s has been overtaken by art galleries, bookshops and cafes. Don't miss the photo gallery. 4 P.M. - China National Film Museum is a few blocks north in newer arts district Caochangdi, a quiet village where Bird's Nest co-designer Ai Weiwei and dozens of well-respected artists and galleries have migrated. 7 P.M. - Hungry? Scruffy and grey by day, central-east Dongzhimennei Dajie, nicknamed Gui Jie or “Ghost Street” glams up at night with hundreds of red lanterns lining its 2-km (mile) stretch of restaurants. Stylish Hua Jia Yi Yuan in a revamped old “siheyuan” courtyard is walking distance from Dongzhimen subway. Its private rooms, open courtyards and cloistered back garden serve classic but modern Beijing and Sichuan dishes. 10 P.M. - Karaoke time. Party like the locals do at Partyworld in your own private room. A large selection of English songs, and a positively encyclopedic selection of Chinese songs, are on offer. SUNDAY 9 A.M. - Circling the six post-1980s ring roads that loop modern Beijing is a daily ritual for millions. Take the 300 bus around the 3rd ring road to the southeastern antiques location of Panjiayuan. Open from 4:30 A.M. onwards, its 3,000 market stalls sell everything from cheap Mao watches to Qing-style furniture, ceramics, books, trendy lanterns, clothes, jewelery, silks and more. 12 P.M. - Returning north along the third ring, pass the incomplete icon, Rem Koolhaas' “crooked trousers” CCTV Tower, which state broadcaster China Central Television will move to. The vertigo-inducing structure joins two towers sloped together with a gravity-defying canopy at 80 storys' height. 12.30 P.M. - Jump off at Tuanjiehu station to refuel, refresh and recharge with an ethical (ie: tofu or wheat-gluten-based) lunch of imperial favorite sharks' fin or mock Peking duck in the aesthetic and tasty monk-run vegetarian restaurant Pure Lotus. 2 P.M. - Walk west from Beixinqiao station along Jiaodaokou and then Gulou Dong Dajie to yet another historic center -- the Drum and Bell Tower first built under Mongol leader Kublai Khan in 1272. Reconstructed hutong Nanluoguxiang's trendy collection of boutiques is signposted off to the right, half-way along the tree and music shop-lined Gulou. The beat from the drum tower (gulou) kept time during the Yuan Ming and Qing dynasties, waking the city as early as 5 A.M. At dusk the bell tower opposite rang to announce the city walls' closure. Rebuilt many times, both are open to the public; though just as popular are nearby alleyways harboring cafes such as the rooftop Drum and Bell. 6:30 P.M. - If it's a clear day, trek south a few blocks to imperial remnant Jinshang Park for an unbeatable panoramic view over the metropolis. Climb to high-point Wanchun Pavilion and watch the light fade over the golden roofs of the 600-year-old Forbidden City. 7.30 P.M. - No Beijing visit would be complete without Peking duck -- try the real deal before you leave and Da Dong is a good bet, not too touristy and as popular with the locals as it is with visitors.
